Name tags and Garment Labels

I started thinking about labels and name tags for my clothes this week. I have looked a few times before but never come across anything. I have used brown hangers with gold metal as they look really clean and sophisticated and the colour of them fits in with my colour palette. I spoke to Timpsons about engraving and they can put a gold plack on each hanger with my name engraved on them. I think it would be a lvoely idea and look really professinal but they want to charge me £90 for 13 hangers! This was after bargaing from £13.99 per hanger. I really want to do it but i dont know if i think that is a resonabile price i also then thought as the metal is so fine it would be nice if this was the name tag in my clothes also but that would cost me £180 then which is extortionate. So i am going to have a sarch to see any other companies that can do engraving for me.

Linked in

I finally joined linked in today. I think its really good its a direct link to design companies to see what oppertunitys are available and definately worth been a part of as im going to be needing to lok for jobs and apply for many when i graduate as its not going to be handed to me on a plate. I think you have to go out an dlook fo oppertunitys and make your own luck and push for what you want and this is a brilliant way of seeing whats available to grab oppertunity wise.

Pleated Skirt

Today I made this skirt. It is not completely finished as i need a fastening small waist band and i am going to roll hem the bottom. To do the seams i used a small over lock which had only three threads. The fabric is an unusual colour as in the light it changes from a brown to a pinky gold so i used three different threads which worked at well as the blended in to make almost a perfect colour. I was slightly annoyed as the technician set me up on the machine and oil came out along my seams but she said it will come out with talc. It wasnt hard to put the skirt together but getting the waist to stay tight was difficult as the pleats would stretch out but the waistband will stop that. Also as it is sunray pleating they make diagonal lines so the side seams cut into the pleats. I tried to keep the fullness to the sides as a design feature which i think works well it brings depth to the skirt and it as you can see skin through it and the pleats cascading across the body is like the water running of the sculptures in the trevi fountain. I love the movement it creates when it someone walks wearing it which is what i want to create fullness and movement around the figure. Like adding motion to your outfit. I think i am going to use an invisible zip but i dont know weather rouleaux loops and buttons would be a nice detail? I will have to sample it and speaking to friends they suggested i use elasctic inthe waistband to give it sturdyness and cover it in the fabric as the fabric is so fine that interfacing shows right through it and looks unsightly. I think this is a really good idea.

Response to Rykiel

I did these small samples in response to the sonia rykiel collection where she used feathers and it created volume. I have torn pieces of chiffon like fabric and frayed the edges to give it that soft feminine look like i did to the waist of my trousers. I really like how delicate it appears and almost fragile. It is very whimsical. I really like it and feel i could use it someone but rather then just going ahead into something new again like i do i need to design a new line up and stick to it. Thoroughly design every piece and item and see if this is going to be appropriate to my work.

Sonia Rykiel Spring Summer 2008

Easter Week

This week is the first week of easter and so far i have spent every day in uni. I am slowly but surely making progress. I decided i really need to go ahead with the pleating. I had started to do some more designer research and came across things i loved and i felt where who i am and what i love and looking at different techniques i can use and add in along side my work i already have that would give it that romantic feel. I showed alison an old Sonia Rykiel collecion im in Love with but she wasn't to impressed she said it was frilly nonesense :). I can see where she is coming from but looking at it for me it had elements of frivolity and romance and was so feminine you just get caught up in it and thats what i want my collection to be. Not here collection but the feelings it evoked in me! So i contacted a guy called Chillo i know a few other people have used and he was great he said he does sunray pleating no problem and there was no size limit. I just had to cut out my half circles as many as i need pleating and meet him at Hollings campus and by the end of the next day i had them back. So i got some of my linen done my white cotton and my Poly chiffon. The poly chiffon took it best having man made qualities and i love it. I am going to get on it and make a garment from it tomorow. Its so soft and sheer but the pleating gives it movement and detail.

Ladies Day

Yesterday i went to Ladies Day at Aintree race course. I have always wanted to go and because i have been getting so stressed and worked up lately with my work and the course my family thought it best i just have a complete day off to take my mind off it and bought me a ticket. It was such a fun day out and i loved seeing everyones outfits. I have been doubting myself lately and wondering if i should be doing this or if my works to dressy as i tend to veer towards red carpet or feeling i cant do this or i cant do that and seeing how intersted in everyones outfits yesterday and how excited gorgeous clothes make me i know i should be. Maybe red carpet is to much but glamour is what i love i think its what makes me me and my designs me to. I think that theres no harm in going this route and really glaming it up. Its what i know best and feel comfortable and excited doing!I also think there is a big market for it. And im not going to worry about that any more im not a quirky odd designer i like gorgeous clothes that are glamourous and make woman feel attractive wearing them. Im going to stick with this because ultimately it is my collection and i really want to do well but i need to stay true to myself as i will have to live with this being m degree collection so it should be what i wanted it to be.

Re-working

After speaking to alison and everything we discussed on my lineup so far she flicked through my sketchbook and designer influence wise i had looked at Stella Mccartney and Lanvin, in particular Lanvins draping. I looked at this because it was suitable to everything i had looked at the la dolce vita film set in Rome the Rennaisance Art and Greek and Roman Mythology. My pants are based on fullness and draping but in a less obvious to the theme way. So alison advised i re work the kimono blazer into something more interesting and drapey to tie in. These are a couple of pictures from working on the stand with it just pinning it and tie-ing it in different ways. I can see what she means by it been more intriguing in design like this. I dont think this is quite there yet but i have the idea of what she wants me to do now i just need to refer back to my research again and maybe combine design and stand work in regards to reworking this piece.

1st year help

I have had vansha helping me again this week however after mondays tutorial i feel completly lost. I know i need to take it in a new direction but i just dont know what that is and it would be much more helpful to have had her help after easter as i dont know what i am doing let alone find something for her to do so i gave her some paper based research for me today which will help my sketchbook development work but i just dont feel that is useful to her. I am very ready for easter now i need it to come soon.!!! i need a break as i feel so caught up in everything i cant see what im doing anymore.

One on One tutorial

This was how my line up stood ay my crit today. I think i work really hard in a week to produce almost four outfits. I planned to have the sequin top with the linen trousers and that be my second outfit but alison thinks i should split them up and add in more exciting pieces. We spoke about the collection and feel it is siting somewhere middle of the road. Its not simple enough to be minimilist and its not big enough to be a bold collection so i need to decide which way i want to take it and move on in that direction. I took with my new line up which looks like this:

At first i was really happy with it i definately think it evoked the sense of sophistication and market level i am going for. But talking to alison she said similar to looking at my clothes my line up is in between to its safe. and i dont want to be safe i think i want to push it bolder. I believe i can do it and i am drawn to the first and last outfits which are bolder and i think they look like they work well. I think i need to go back to my research again and sit and work it out dont just work from what ive made and my head look at my research again. What do i want to be remembered for. We looked at central st martins and as i went through each collection i could use one word to describe wat it was and thats what i need to do with mine. I need to define it. Alison also said about maybe introuducing a colour again. Likei had looked at an acid green early on but im still unsure i reall ylike it as muted tones i think it keeps it a tasteful and sophisticated level i think bright colours will take in a completly different direction although if i did introude a colour i am thinking tangerine.

Fitting

Just a thought i had from making the trousers, designer often bring the models in for fittings and tailor them to a person so i think from now on throughout i will double check and fit them on people as its going to be models wearing them. Also this way i know they will fit the models for show selection. Im getting nervous for show selection. I know il be ready cause it means to much to me and i have to be ready but it is getting closer and i feel nervous all the time. I will be devestated if when the list goes up im not in because were all working so hard towards it, it means alot. More so because i dont have conatcts from interning or any press coverage i feel a need it to give me an oppertunity.

Linen Trousers Outfit three

This week i also toiled my linen trousers and cut the pieces out of my fabric. This wa son friday so i ran out of time to sew them at uni. I pinned them around the mannequin and slid them off so i could sew them at home. I used the size 12 stand and tried them on my siz e 10 friend. The pieces were the same on both sides however one side was perfect and one which i hadnt sewn up yet didnt meet around her leg.

 

I had to recut the left leg bigger with mesurements i took from my friend so the trousers essentially are uneven however i made themup and they fit her perfectly. As much as they should fit the mannequins and be even it is more important they fit a person as they are made to be worn so i think this is better. I will try them on a mannequin again next week though.

Manchester Show

This week we have been talking more about the manchester degree show. I think we nee dto put more of a focus on this as for osme people who wont get to show at graduate fashion week this is going to be really important for people to showcase their work which they have spent time and money on.

The museum of science and industry has been suggested as a potential place to hold the show. I have seen the space personally so i am going to go and check it out as i would like to see as a few people have said it is actually a really nice space. Fingers crossed we get it and cant start making plans.

Tutorial

This weeks tutorial didnt go so well. I felt really thrown off i know alison is trying to guide me and i worry her cause my pace isnt constant and my work load is up and down but i struggle as i have to work to be able to afford the course so its a balence for me of uni and work. I dont want my work to suffer and recently i am exhausted. I feel thrown off as i feel because im a bit behind she doesnt think i can do it and its hard to push yourself if you feel that people dont believe in you. I understand her concern so she wants me to go ahead with the sunray pleating. Im abit worried that it is to on trend at the moment but i will have to use it in a different way to ensure it works. I know  i need to repeat garments but i felt this week a little like i was been told what to make just so that i finished and soonbut thats not what it is about i need constructive critisism and i just feel downhearted at the moment. I dont think creativity should ever be sacrificed because of time i just need help to organise what order to work in to get on top of it. A part of me feels sad but when i have a bad tutorial the next day it fire sme up to get on and prove people wrong.

London Fabric shopping

So i visited London AGAIN!!!!! Luckily i was organised and knew what i was going for. I bought som elovely Linen from cloth house and some polly chiffon from goldhawk road shops. Its the first time i visited them as everyone told me they sold the same as berwick street but cheaper but i wasnt impressed. Because it was cheaper the service wasnt the same they were much more unhelpful and rushed you and i think i would rather pay that bit extra for some genuine help and service and be able to take my time and deal with the same people. They were also unwilling to give me decent samples which is unhelpful as i would have to visit them every time i need fabric whereas i can order via phone from berwick street. It was helpful in that i dont always have th eluxury of been able to afford berwick street prices but i would rather not shop at goldhawk road if i can help it.

Holes in Fabric.

This week when using my sequin fabric i discovered a couple of holes right in the middle of the fabric.

I was really shocked by this for the cost of the fabric i have spent almost £400 on it in total. I emailed silk society and explained and in response they basically said its weak and the nature of an embellished fabric and no one else has had this problem. I was really unhappy i emailed the above photos to them and after many emails they decided they would send me half a metre as a good will gesture. I was really happy withthis as i just thought its not acceptable. They wouldnt send silk out with holes in the middle so this shouldnt be any different. Luckily i darned the holes and i now have extra fabric to use.

1st year help

This week is the first week have help from are 1st years. I think its a strange time of year to give us the help now as i remember when we did it the third years were much furthur on. I felt it would be helpful later as i would have lots of finishes and odd jobs to give my helper vansha were as at the moment i dont have much to give her.
She has been very helpful this week i gave her tuesday off as i went to london and she offrerd to continue at home the work she was doing for me the day before. I gave her my sequin seam allowance to unpick on the trousers as i felt it would be realy helpful for me and occupy her for a while but she managed to do it really quickly i was impressed! Which is brilliant as i can get on and make the trousers sooner then anticipated. She is really lovely and keen to help which is good and from what she has done for me so far she is really quite good and very neat aswell. I showed her my drawing for my sequin top and explained how to make the pattern and let her get on with it and she toiled it up for me really well. She took her time which i didnt mind as when she brought it back with her it was so neat.

This is vansha toile she made for me which is really good. It is quite a simple block but thats what am after because the fabric is so heavily embellished. I widened the neckline on the pattern and scooped out the back as i wanted to bring that element of sexy sophistication into it so it is daring but not tacky revealing.

This is the top almost finished. I decided i would let vansha sew it together. I trusted her and the finish on the toile was really neat so i asked her to put the top together using french seams and i was realy impressed. I may have to face the neckline or self line the top to make it neat on the inside but overall its really neat. The only problem i have with the top is that as it is so low and quite weight it is slipping off the shoulders so i may have to put a tie or a cord across the back to hold it on the model. I have a karen millen sequin dress and it has a similar thing across the top back to hold it up so its not an common finish but i will have to trap it in the lining.
I hope i gave her helpful jobs and that she learnt from me. I think she did as if she wishes to work in sequins she knows the problems with them and she understands finish and the importance of preparing proper patterns and toiling if your working with expensive fabrics. She was very shocked at the cost of the fabric.

Tutorial

This weeks tutorial with alison we put everything on the stand we had done so far and discussed it. I personally am happy with the garments i have created so far and spoke about where to go next. I think alison is worried im not on top of everything and will fall behind but i just need a bit of direction and help filling in the blanks. We discusse dmy next three outfits (rest of the collection) and realised its not co heasive enough. I dont like repeating things but after talking i realised that i need to for it to be a convincing range. I will repeat techniques as opposed to garments and bring in some consistancy throught but i wish to add mor ein to th ecollection. I feel it needs livening up and sexingup a bit to as it is based on mythology and romance and is ment to have a sexy element to it. We have discussed using sunray pleating as a way of introducing something else so i need to do some redesigning and encorprate this into my collection. Other then that i feel ok. I feel a little worried that i dont know what i got for my dissertation and i dont know where my skecthbook lies as i feel totally clueless as to where i am sitting in terms of what grade i may come out with. Alison says its not about grades its about your collection which it is and i agree however i feel to get an interview i have to have a fairly good degree mark to even get an interview where theyll see my work. 

Magazine Oppertunity

At the foyer pin up alison introduced us to a girl who had come from a magazine and was looking for 2 to 3 peoples work to feature in the magazine. She said it will feature in a graduate fashion edition focussin on student work. It would be an amazing oppertunity to get some press coverage and get my name and work out there. I did try speaking to here and opproaching her although when i asked her questions she seemed very sketchy and very vague on the responses and dont feel she actually answered my questions.
I dont think my work will get picked as from the discription she gave its a very edgy unusual magazine and my work is very feminine wearable sophisticated pieces. I may be wrong thats just what i thought which is unfortunate as i dont have any good links to get my name out there and get coverage for my work. 

Foyer Pin up

 

For the foyer pin up we were supposed to have three outfits so im a little behind as im only on two but everyone was at different points and i spoke to alison and she said its not a major problem because im almost there. But i do need to get a move on. I feel things are starting to move faster for me now which is good im picking up the pace although i still dont feel totally clear on what im doing all the time im still lacking confidance i think. The pin up went well and was good to get feedback from everyone on what works and what to push forward and was amazing to see how weve all come on and see evryones work. I am quite pleased that i feel my works is really quite different to other peoples. Not better or worse just different i feel theres none that are much similar to mine which is good because it gives my work identity and i hope it will stand out.

Kimono Top

This week i worked on this kimono style blazer. I wanted it to have lapels and be blzer like to reference the masculinity but desided to keep the body of it soft and loose so it has a feminine twist. Im happy with it but it needs a lot of work its for my second outfit and will go with the sequin trousers. I think the more i make my pattern cutting is getting better and my knowledge of construction is better so i am able to fathom things out quicker and easier. I dint toile this i was able to cut it straight away. Its made in the same fabric as the trousers and has the fullnes to to tie it with the first outfit.

Photoshoot

The photoshoot was a success!!!!!!! I am made up. These are some fo the pictures i took and i have the ones from the photographer also. I think paying for the professional models made such a difference. I was really upset this week as i felt like i dont know where im heading and everyone around me seems to be getting on fine and im struggling and seeing my photos back and my outfit on a model has gave me the confidance boost again because it looks really good and i have confidance in my own work again!
I spoke to alison in regards to accessorising th eoutfit with the hat. She said she was unsure but i thought it makes it complete and looks finished and evokes more of a town presecence to the outfit. Like she could walk of set and go shopping so i went with it and i feel it wa sa succesful risk. I photograped it with and without the hat but it just worked. I think my strength is i can style things well and i can use that to my advantage i feel to accessorise up my colleciton to make it a convinving wearable collection. I think i am going to pay to use the same model again a photograph my full colection when it is finsihed and make myself a lookbook.
Luckily i work at topshop and they agreed to lendme some shoes for the photshoot for free! They looked really nice with the outfit. The wasnt much to them but the colour and style of shoe wa sappropriate. Im hoping that as i took them back in perfect condition theyd be willing to lend them to me for the manchester show.

Organising Photoshoot

In this weeks monday meeting we discussed the photoshoot. It is booked for in two weeks across monday tuesday wednesday and no one has done anything about it myself included. Im abit of a control freak and we discussed using professional models and alison thinks that would be best. I agress because it makes are work more believable and not student like. The photographs would look like a convinving designers work. After the mmeting being the control freak i am i thought rather then wait a couple of days have a meeting wait another couple of days and discuss as time is running otu just take responsibility and get on with it as i dont like relying on other people and as i have so much to do i think i need to know when im doing what. I called boss models told them how many we require and asked for a range of female models photos and measurements. I know some people wanted red hair i wanted black skin and so i tried to pick a range of girls that would please everyone. Within an hour the lady at boss got back to me and that evening i made up a board of everyones pictures most popular on the top row, and a table of names against all measuerments hair colour eye colour shoe size ect. I asked everyone to pick 4 models in order of first choice second choice and so on. Arranged these girls by availabilty across the three days two to each day so one can change whilst another is photographed and with help from a couple of other girls split them womenswear designers across these days. Boss were really helpful and each model cost £100 student rate for the whole day which isnt bad at all and only worked out at £28 per person to pay. Luckily we had the money we raised in an account to book the models immediately and could transfer this money back into the account. I think most people were happy that i organised it and i felt so much better for having sorted it and no need to worry. Hair isnt fully sorte but we have been told a few peoples friends who are hairdressers will do it for free. This week i alo contacted the cassie lomas make up acadamy in manchester. After a few calls they have said they can send two make up artists per day for the full day free of charge as they are doing it for the experience and we can give them the photographs. I found whilst organising this i really enjoyed it and dont know wetaher it would be worth considering this when i apply for jobs wheather i would be interested in the organisational side of things like helping to organise runway shows.

Acorn Fabrics

I ordered my cotton from acorn fabrics and they had such a variety of different cottons i was impressed. They sent me a price list for every type of cotton which is handy to have for the future and samples of various cottons to. I think i used to think cotton was just simple its white cotton but when you come to use it a better quality cotton does make a differnce. It wasnt to expensive either i ordered 7 metres and with delivery and vat it cost £56. I need to repeat the fabric and kind of stumbled across using cotton but i think it really works it looks really fresh and summery.

Top toile/make

Over this week and a half i toiled the top up in order to create a reusable pattern for myself, and tried to source suitable jersey. However i wasnt convinced on that been the appropriate material as its ment to have structure and hold the shape were as jersey would fall flat! i took it to tutorial in this state and i think i have worried alison that i am going really slow this week. We decided to just go ahead with white cotton and make it in that. Partly because of time i feel however i felt from the start this was more suitable i should have spoke up the last tutorial but sometimes i feel when the whole group talks to me its over powering and i dont feel i get my view across.

I found it really quick making the top again when i had produced a proper pattern which is good so when i need to repeat it it wont take me to long! The only thing i hadnt thought through was how the top was going to fasten as the neckhole is to small to pull over the head because all the gathers attatch at the neck. I though about using two zips but couldnt find them short enough and thought it wasnt a nice enough finish. So i made rouleaux loops and made it a button fastening. I think it works so much better and looks more expensive as you can tell time has gone into it. I dont think they were to bad for a first attempt either.

I am really happy with the top i think its a successs. I realise i need to design things more thouroughly and consider things like finishings and fastenings before starting to make however i think i solved the issue quite efficently. I got the technitions to bind the top for me. Its the first help i ve had but i minor thing which ment i could move on to something else. Compared to my toile there isnt as much fullness in this top and alison said she thinks it should be bigger and the darts arnt quite hidden like i thought they would be by the twisted fabric but i can learn from this and make these alterations when i repeat the garment.